Gown in black silk cloth
Italian workshop
Long evening gown in black silk cloth with a shot silk effect and a white doupionnée weft. The bust, front and hem of the skirt have inlaid medallions
in unbroken black silk thread Chantilly bobbin lace with cordonets and applications in bluette velvet. The half-sleeves, the neckline with a high neck and the tails at the back are in black silk Leaver mechanical lace with small stripe and dot motifs edged with velvet. The gown is fastened at the back, the bodice is lightly padded and the waistline is highlighted by bluette velvet applications adorned with three buttons in black jet on either side. The bodice has two separate tulle panels at the back. The skirt is made of flared
lengths of fabric that create the hint of a train.
This sophisticated model, inspired by French patterns, was unquestionably made by an Italian atelier of the highest level. The use of chenille applications and decorations in jet and the inverted corolla line of the soft, ample skirt point to a date of c. 1905. The gown belonged to the Marchioness Maria Rucellai, the wife of Giulio de’ Rossi, an aristocrat from Pistoia.
Donated by the Associazione Amici della Galleria del Costume, 1993.