Mantle
Paul Poiret, attributed (Paris 1879 - 1944)
The exquisite mantle with its rhomboid cut is made of silk velvet with a stylised Art Deco rose motif. The lower part is in mechanical Leavers lace made of artificial black fibre and gilded metal wire. The high, quilted neck vertically studded with decorative bean beads in high relief lends the mantle the silhouette of a flower poised to bloom. The equally exquisite lining material is figured satin with a black silk warp and spun gold weft echoing the rose theme. Despite the fact that there is no label, the attribution to Paul Poiret is perfectly plausible in view of the mantle’s refined materials and sophisticated workmanship, not to mention the dominant decorative motif which is a tribute to the Rose d’Iribe, the maison’s official logo.
Anna Piaggi collection, purchased by the state prior to export, 2009